TorreBarolo Blog

Our friend Gary Chevsky on Falanghina:

I don’t know if it was a California scene or a Campania scene, but we were luncho-dining on a deck overlooking the ocean, freshest, juiciest, succulent seafood in our plates, washed down by a glass of Campania’s native Falanghina white wine, 70 degrees on a brilliant pre-summer day, not one but two weddings unfolding on the beach underneath, kids running around, couples cozying up, and a country band playing live on the side patio, provoking me to make ridiculous moves.

Sam’s Chowder House in Half Moon Bay is where it’s at!
And if you want to chill like the Californitalianos, come for late lunch and stay for early dinner, and bring your every-day bottle of Falanghina, ’cause that every-day wine of Campania, the coastal region at the front of the boot of Italy, is the ideal complement to wash down fresh seafood, whichever part of the world you happen to be in.

They’ve got to have the best Lobster rolls in the country. Rated “top 5 sandwiches in America” by NBC’s The Today Show, it’s just super fresh soft bread, with butter, and lobster. Sweet, soft, just a touch spongy, but by no means rubbery, like morsels of paradise, they disappear in your mouth before you know it!

It seems that every region in Italy has its staple red and white wine. For those next to water, you can be sure, the wine is going to scream seafood. No oak, great acidity, balanced fruit and mineral. These wines don’t tend to be great, but for $10-15, they are perfect with crab, shrimp, lobster salads, ceviches, and all kinds of honest-to-goodness fresh seafood cornucopia that we so enjoy here on the Pacific coast! This particular bottle of the 2008 Falanghina from one of the top Campania houses – Feudi di San Gregorio – was consumed in a blink, and beat the pants off the all-too-common Pinot Grigio epidemic that average wine drinkers think is cool. Suffice it to say, this vino will not rob your seafood of attention, but it will add its 2 cents worth. And if you ever head to the Bay Area coast, BYOB to Sam’s Chowder House on Highway 1 in Half Moon Bay, a place where even a Russian Jew from Ukraine can feel like an Italian in California!

Our friend Nancy Yos, of blog At First Glass, kindly shared with us her thoughts on a 2006 Vobis Tua Barbera d’Asti from Cantine Volpi. Nancy has been blogging for three years and her posts cover a wide range of wines and regions. 

2006 Vobis Tua Barbera d’Asti

Producer: Cantine Volpi s.r.l., Tortona, Italy.

Light bodied, briny piquancy — tart, underripe raspberries – a little tarry or smoky — needs food

2nd day: mellowed and silkier

Barbera d’Asti is both a grape and a DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) but note that smaller case b-barbera is the grape, while capital B-Barbera d’Asti refers to the DOC, in the lovely Piedmont region of northwest Italy, spelled in Italian Piemonte. If Italy generally conjures up images of sunshine, rolling hills, Rome, Renaissance art, and pasta, for Piedmont in particular we ought to think instead of mountains (the Alps), rushing rivers (the Po), drifting fogs, of industrial Turin, and oddly enough of rice and corn cultivation. Both are major crops here (think risotto and polenta). 

For its part, our glass of Barbera d’Asti represents a sort of little brother in a hierarchy of Piedmont’s red wines, ranking below the great Barbaresco and the still greater Barolo, both named for their places of origin within Piedmont but vinified from the nebbiolo grape — which in turn is named, it seems, for the drifting fogs (nebbia). Barbera can be either Barbera d’Asti, as we have here, or Barbera d’Alba; the latter is considered just slightly more of a heavyweight than the former, which seems to be why Barbera d’Asti is an everyday what’s-for-dinner wine in this part of Italy. Barbera d’Alba is also another DOC.

Like so many Italian red wines, except its powerhouse big brothers Barbaresco and Barolo, a Barbera has that tart, light, berry-like flavor and a texture that seems a little grainy and rough, as if a few seeds of a fresh raspberry had found their way into the bottle and added their own little interesting zip there. 

Wine books always emphasize that Italian wines like this, tending to be thin, fresh, and acidic, are meant to be drunk with a meal and not treated as a free-standing cocktail, which is often how we drink syrupy, barbecued-fruit California cabernets or merlots. Karen MacNeil in The Wine Bible writes rapturously of the Piedmontese food that would go with a Barbera, or even better, with its muscular big brothers, Barbaresco and Barolo: heavy meat dishes, thick risottos, eggy fresh-made pastas dressed only with butter and sage leaves or, if you are lucky and are visiting in the fall, with shavings of white truffle from Alba. The truffle’s spectacular taste, MacNeil explains in a sidebar, has been studied in science labs, and has been found to derive from some sort of chemical that is also present in the testes of men and bulls. Experienced people hunt for them at night in secret, with specially trained white dogs. Wasn’t there a commercial jingle that used to assure us Italians have more fun?

Indeed they seem to, and another of Italy’s most fun wines, Moscato d’Asti, is also a product of this same Piedmont that gives us our very serious Barolos and our zippy Barberas. Of this, I can provide just one quick tasting note: it’s flying off the shelves in grocery stores now, outperforming even queen Chardonnay and princess Pinot Grigio. 

Vobis Tua, we are told, is Latin for “as you like it.” We like it. Retail: about $10-$12.

Every two years in Turin, Slow Food hosts the Salone del Gusto. This is the mother of all food events and draws over 150,000 visitors. The program for the 2010 event (October 21-25) was recently released (only in Italian) so I wanted to use my blog to highlight this excellent food event.

This event is special as the stars of this food expo are the small-scale food producers from all over the world that showcase their products.  Moreover, it is about the people just as much as it is about the excellent food as the event enables like-minded producers and buyers to connect in the search for quality food.

Visitors can discover and taste Slow Food Presidia products and cuisines from all over the world, attend some of the hundreds of Taste Workshops, participate in conferences and learn from chefs in the Theatre of Taste program.

The program for the event is 50 pages so if there was a specific food/wine etc that you were interested in seeing if there is a workshop on, I suggest you click here to review the program. Also, it is important to highlight that some of the events are not in Turin but in the surrounding Langhe valley.

Definitely worth highlighting is the Sala Slow Wine which is held every day of the event, from 11am to 10pm, with the last entrance at 8.30pm. This consists of an enoteca dedicated to wine lovers who will have the opportunity to choose from 300 well known labels for tastings. Every day international wine makers will host presentations and famous chef Davide Scabin, from Combal.Zero restaurant in Rivoli, will introduce his creations. The €50 ticket gains you access and allows you 15 tastings.

Also, I have highlighted a few workshops that sound yummy but also focus on products around TorreBarolo but as I said, this is only my view and the selection is vast.

L’eredità del Barolo – October 21 at 7pm €45

The next generation of 4 of the main Barolo producers present this tasting event, comparing previous vintages, and introducing some new ones: Augusto Cappellano – Barolo Rupestris 2004 and 1998; Roberto Conterno – Barolo Cascina Francia 2006 and 1996; Maria Teresa Mascarello – Barolo 2005 and 1995 (magnum bottle), Pietro Ratti – Barolo Rocche 2007 (preview, though not commercially available until 2011) and 1997.

Barbaresco d’ autore – October 21 at 4pm €30

A retrospective view on the work of Alberto di Gresy, in charge of La Martinega winery in Barbaresco since 1973. The workshop will focus on how he transformed a relatively small family run winery into one of the main Barbaresco labels. Tastings of: Langhe Rosso Virtus 1998, Barbaresco Gajun 1999 e Barbaresco Camp Gros 1990, all in magnum bottle.

Salami d’Italia – October 22 at 4pm €20

Every region in Italy has its own salame. This workshop provides an introduction and overview of the best regional products: salame delle valli tortonesi, salame di Fabriano (Presìdi Slow Food), ventricina del Vastese, fiorettino reggiano, sopressa di Fagagna, finocchiona di San Miniato, soppressata calabra.

I magnifici Novanta di Sandrone – October 22 at 7pm €45

A tasting and tribute to Luciano Sandrone, one of the most celebrated and well-known Barolo wine producers. This event will be extra special as Luciano will personally guide you through some of his best Barolo Le Vigne vintages from the 90s’: 1993, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999.

 Parmigiano Reggiano e Porto – October 23 at 7pm €25

Two symbols of the best European gastronomy will meet and you will be shown how time changes and affects these products. Four releases of Parmersan (15 months, 22 months, 28 months and the well aged 36 months) will be put together with the best Port, different vintages and types, presented by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto.

If you are interested in participating in any of the workshops etc, I strongly recommend you book way in advance as these events gets sold out well ahead of the opening.

Salone del Gusto is held simultaneously with the Terra Madre world meeting of food communities.

A couple of weeks ago, I talked about Alba as a classic regional Piemonte town. One reason I am a big Alba fan is due to the numerous foodie and wine events the city host throughout the year. Given TorreBarolo is just a 15mins car ride to Alba, it is easy to get there and enjoy these events for a few hours. Moreover, given the size of Alba, these events are low-key affairs where you don’t have to worry about queuing to sample a selection of wines or walking endlessly around a huge convention center.

The International White Truffle Fair that commences in October for 2 months is well known and attracts serious foodies given the passion that exists for this mysterious musty smelling fungus. One event that is less well known is Vinum, Langhe and Roreo’s annual wine festival. Vinum’s function is to showcase the mom and pop wineries as well as the regional stars. As many of the smaller wineries don’t export outside the region, I see Vinum as an excellent opportunity to familiarize myself with the vast offerings from the local producers. Also exciting is that the producers use Vinum as the event to release new vintages of Barolo and Barbaresco.

Recently Alba hosted the 34^th edition of Vinum and although I was able to attend, being 7 months pregnant did put a damper on being able to enjoy any of the tastings. The set up this year was different than other years I have attended as this year the organizers decided to contain all the events within three separate marquees/exhibition centers. (I must say I preferred this to walking through the streets of Alba looking for the various kiosks).

This year’s three areas were divided into the following:

Palavinum 1: hosted the “Grand Langhe and Roero wines”. For €12 you would get a ticket book to taste 10 wines, a wine glass, a pouch to carry your wine glass in, a bottle of water and discount vouchers. For an incremental €4, a 2^nd person could join you. Given the quality of wines in this exhibition hall, it looked like a deal to me, especially since I never saw many tickets exchanged and think that as long as you had a pouch and a glass you could go on tasting.

Palavinum 2: hosted both wine and food and was titled “Appetizing Encounters”.  The price for this event was the same as Palavinum 1. The difference with this marquee was that the wines weren’t exclusively from the Langhe/Roero region and were from Piemonte in general, however, most of the placards I saw were of local vintners.  Given I didn’t recognize many of the wineries in this marquee I am going to make the broad statement that this is where the smaller mom and pop wineries exhibit. Also in this marquee there were numerous food producers offering samples of everything from my favourite Castelmagno cheese, to the special Bra salsicca to the delicious local “Torte alla Nocciola” (hazelnut cakes). 

Palavinum 3: hosted the big dogs and instead of kiosks to walk around and sample various wines, there were set times for events and the prices reflected the prestigious wines on offer. For example, there was a retrospective of great Barolo vintages where participates sampled 16 wines for €40. Palavinum 3 events were spread over two days and there were many special events during these days to enhance your knowledge and appreciation of the region’s world famous wines.

Vinum extends over the last weekend in April and first two weekend of May. Mark your calendar for 2011 so you don’t miss out on this excellent wine lover event!

One fun element to spending time in Italy is getting to participate in the numerous food and wine exhibitions the country hosts each year. The main one I am looking forward to this year is Salone del Gusto 2010 in association with Slow Food and will be held in Turin, October 21-25 (advance booking recommended, the official program will be announced on Wednesday 19^th of May).

However, starting today in Parma is the 15^th edition of Cibus, the International Food Exhibition. Together with Dolce Italia, the Confectionery Exhibition, the organizers are expecting more than 60,000 visitors over this 4 days event.

Now given the abundance of food exhibitions in the country why would I highlight this event? One simple answer: Parma. I am a big Parma fan and I am not talking just about the prosciutto. Parma can be reached in less than two hours from TorreBarolo and is a wonderful city to walk around given its long shop lined pedestrian streets and lovely porticos. Parma is continually cited as one of the best Italian cities to live in and an afternoon walking around this elegant city will surely provide you with an insight as to why it gets this ranking.

Anyway, back to Cibus. What you can expect to find will be representatives of European and International retail chains and for the first time, an exhibition area has been set aside for foreign retail chains to display their premium brand lines.

CIBUS will also host “Dolce Italia, the Confectionery Salon” and “Planet Nutrition” which is a new initiative consisting of courses and seminars on topics such as baby food, diet and sports, nutrition for the elderly, and much more.

In the large “Eating Out” Piazza will also include a bar as well as a restaurant area and theme this year will be “Breakfast”, with demonstrations and tasting sessions for breakfast products, from pastries to coffee, fruit juices to cereal-based products. Another innovation will be “CIBUS in the City”, with kiosks by leading food companies located in Parma’s streets and piazzas offering tastings.

So, if you are interested in both Italian and European food products and fancy a visit to one of Italy’s nicest cities, then a visit to Parma for CIBUS is a great day out.

I have written numerous posts in the last year, however, I have failed to write about the one little city (population: 30,000) that I have continuously enjoyed since I discovered the Langhe – Alba, the classic regional Piemonte town … and only a 15min car drive from TorreBarolo.

Often Asti, the main town of the Monferrato, has the pretentions of a provincial capital, however, I agree with those writers that cite Alba as a smaller community that happily conserves much of the best of Piemonte.

Between the end of the 12^th and first half of the 13^th century Alba enjoyed a period of prosperity, which expressed itself in the constructions of fortified buildings (towers) within the town. These towers were a mark of prestige as the higher the tower, the richer and more powerful the family that owned it. There are only four towers in Alba today that retain their original height and are concentrated around the Piazza del Duomo. There used to be so many towers that Alba came to be known as the town of a hundred towers. Although these towers characterize its medieval history, during the renovation of the medieval Palazzo Marro, Roman archaeological finds were uncovered showing traces of Roman Temple that existed during the 1^st half of the 1^st century AD. 

Much of the essence of Alba can be experienced walking down Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via Cavour (both closed to cars) lined with a wonderful mixture of restaurants/cafes, enotecas, clothing stores and gourmet food stores (below I have listed a few). Being the main town in the Langhe, its no surprise that Alba hosts many wine and food related events showcasing the rich wine and truffle production (to be discussed in the second part of this post). However, there is more to Alba than just wine and white truffles as the city also sponsors numerous classical music/chamber music and film events throughout the year that continually refresh the city with new residents/visitors.  

On a first visit to Alba I would recommend heading to the ample parking at Piazza San Paolo and then walking the few minutes to Piazza Savona, which is at the top of Via Vittorio Emanuele II, to begin your stroll. Before you turn left to walk under the short expanse of porticoes on Via Cavour you will enter Piazza Risorgimento (aka Piazza Duomo) with the medieval town hall straight ahead and Cathedral San Lorenzo to your right. Very little remains of the principal cathedral that was built between 1486-1517 and in its place is a neo-gothic cathedral built in the 19^th century. Also in this piazza you will find the Alba tourist office that has an extensive selection of free information on local events/tastings/activities in English and German (the tourist office is open all day). Via Cavour is not a very long street so I suggest a little side diversion to Piazza E. Pertinace which is a nice little piazza that host a small organic food market on Saturday.

Most of the Albese stores shut for siesta so be sure to plan your stroll when the stores are open which is until 12:30/1pm and then between 4pm and 7pm. I suggest select a table at one of the numerous outdoor cafes  – my favourite is Vincafé on Via Vittorio Emanuele 12 – and enjoy an aperitif during the evening “passeggiata”, when the locals come out to view and be viewed. Cin cin.

Bakeries and sweetshops

“Pasticceria Cheinasso”, Corso Langhe 88, famous for its torta di nocciole

“Io, Tu e I dolci”, Piazza Savona 12

“Sacco”, Via Cavour 9, for hazelnut cakes and rum macaroons

“Pasticceria Cignetti”, Via Vittorio Emanuele 5, a wonderful old bar/pasticceria since 1878, famous for its torrone. Also try the albesi al barolo (wine flavoured macaroons)

Bars and Cafes

Vincafé, Via Vittorio Emanuele 12, my long standing favourite cafè in Alba. They serve great food all day long and generally always have outdoor seating that offers a great spot for people watching.

“Casa del Caffè”, Via Macrino 1, a large roasting machine is in front as are sacks of beans for show. But you purchase from plastic containers that preserve the aroma of the beans. 

Dining

“Enoclub”, Piazza Savona 4, contact: 0173 220 629. Closed Monday and Sunday evening. Very good food. Restaurant located in the lower ground floor of a but the room is nice/charming (but no windows). Good service and wine list.

La Libera, Via E. Pertinance 24, contact 0173293 155. Closed Monday and Sunday. A more contemporary setting with glass and chrome tables that serves classic Langhe cuisine.

Osteria Dell’Arco, Piazza Savona 5, contact 0173 228 028. Closed Monday and Sunday. Tradtional setting with good traditional good. The rabbit cooked in Arneis is always very good.

La Piola, Piazza Risorgimento 4, contact 0173 442 800. This restaurant is unique in that it has only a choice of one “primo” and “second” each day but also always serves a choice of pasta and a choice of antipasti. It also shares a kitchen with the Ceretto family’s 1 star restaurant, Piazza Duomo, and so it has been my experience that the secondo is of a higher quality than one might expect for this level of dining. Both are owned by the Ceretto family, so all the wines are Ceretto (the white arneis Blangè being one of my favourite white wines). There is glass extension in front of the restaurant to eat at or else in the restaurant itself (which I always prefer for some reason).

“Ristorante La Capannina”, Borgo Moretta, Strada Profonda 21, this restaurant claims to have invented sliced carne cruda, the raw veal antipasto that is so popular in the Langhe.

“Vineria dell’Umberto”, Piazza Savona 4, closed Monday and August, this is a welcoming place for good food and excellent wine, the main reason to come here is to sample wines from a list that contains 200 selections.

A walk down Via Vittorio Emanuele, one of the main thoroughfares of Alba, contains many shops and stores that merit your attention:

• Cignetti, 5
• Pasta Fresca Corino, 9A
• Pasticceria Beretta, 16A
• Polleria Ratti, 18B
• Pasticceria Petitti, 25
• Ponzio Tartufi, 26
• Aldo Martino, 27