TorreBarolo Blog

It was a real treat the other night to tag along with my local friends to a sneak preview of the new museum inside the 15th century Castello Faletti, since it’s only a 5 minutes walk from TorreBarolo. The castle has been closed for more than a year as it has undergone a complete transformation and expansion, with the official opening in the next few months. 

I had toured the castle once before and to be honest, other than the library of the famous Italian writer Silvio Pellico, there wasn’t anything interesting in the castle other than the Enoteca that had a massive selection of old Barolo bottles and of course the possibility to do tastings.

The best way to describe my overall impression of the new museum is to say that it is more a wine fun park than traditional museum. Gone are the boring displays of vintage wine making equipment and dusty bottles of wine. In its places is a wild world that attempts to capture the cycle of a wine’s development. I don’t want to give away all the surprises but out of the 5 floors and probably over 20 rooms that I toured, there are 3 that reflected that you are actually in a castle.

The architect of the renovation is famous for doing the Film museum in Torino. Upon entering, the first thing you see is a elegant and super contemporary cylinder glass elevator with a glass landing that leads into the first room, which is a wicked room with crests and shields on the ceiling and a fireplace large enough to stand in. It is certainly a room I hope the commune decides to rent out for private functions.

Of the wackier rooms is a room that represents the land, as effectively they are attempting to have you experience being a root of a vine. There is a room that is the sun that is painted bright yellow with a mirror floor, followed by a moon room where a giant moon that rotates throughout the room. Entrance into each of the different rooms brought to mind: “what on earth” or “how bizarre”, or “how cool”.

Not all of the features were in place but it was explained to me that in of of the larger room on the 1st floor there will be talking mouths to explain the history etc of the area and wine making production. My favourite room was the cinema complete with movie billboards of movies about wine, leather club chairs, red velvet curtains and I was told they will run clips of a selection of movies that focus on wine (i.e. Sideways, A Good Year, etc…). Below the main floor, the renovation included digging out 2 new floors and these gigantic bunker-esque rooms will be used for virtual lecture rooms to showcases a variety of wine experts. 

There will also be an Enoteca, though our guide didn’t have the key to that room. The castle is missing a cool hip bar where you can sit and ponder the bizarre exhibits but maybe that will be included in the Enoteca.

The grand opening is sometime in March/April. They said they didn’t know yet what the entrance fee will be but I got the impression a reasonable fee to encourage visitors. This is certainly a museum that both kids and adults will enjoy and showcases a new thinking in what a museum can be. It is a fun attraction for a small town and one you surely should check out.

This is one of the largest royal residences in the world, La Venaria Reale, comparable in size to Versailles. This huge complex includes the baroque Royal Palace and gardens as well as the 3000 hectare of La Mandria Park. The palace was commissioned for Duke Charles Emmanuel II, as a base for his hunting expeditions. La Venaria Reale opened to the public in 2007, following the largest restoration program in Europe. Both the palace and park are UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

This extravagant baroque Royal Palace was used as a Savoy residence in the 17th to 18th centuries and is one of the most significant examples of baroque art and architecture in existence and is considered one of the most beautiful royal residences in Europe.

The entire surrounding village of Venaria and the Duke’s hunting grounds were reshaped to incorporate the palace and its many annexes so that they all flowed together into one monumental site.

The garden was completely destroyed in the 19th century but etchings and drawings of the original garden were used in creating the new garden. The new garden has the same lines and proportions as the old garden but has a more contemporary style.

In addition to touring the palace, there are exhibitions available to visit, both permanent and temporary.

In keeping with providing a restaurant recommendation for your day trip, there is a very special restaurant contained within the Palace. Dolce Stil Novo is the restaurant of Alfredo Russo, and is considered one of Italy’s most renowned restaurants. It opened in 2008 and although I can’t personally recommend it (yet) the unique setting would be a great venue to celebrate a special event.

Entrance into the Palace and gardens is €14 and they are open Tues-Sunday. At La Venaria Reale you will loose yourself in nature, history and the arts, it’s located just 10km from Turin city center, or about 50min by car from TorreBarolo.

The most impressive thing about Mondovì is the location on the top of Monte Regale with a backdrop of the Maritime Alps.  Getting to the top of the hill and inside the old town center takes some effort, as being a hillside city there are many one way streets and god forbid you try and drive into the city center at 1pm when the school kids are being let out for the day. I learned the hard way that school kids have priority in Mondovì and access by car into the old town center is virtually impossible (unless of course you really do know where you are going).
That aside, once you navigate up the hill, likely you will find yourself in the pretty Piazza Maggiore, the heart of the old town center.  Via Vico, which heads into Piazza Maggiore, features facades that are decorated with frescos dating back to the 15^th and 16^th century.  Also on this street you will find an 18^th century Synagogue, which is testimony to the Jewish quarter. Mondovì actually was the most populated town in Piedmont in the 16^th century and is home to the first University founded in Piedmont.

Sites:

• the Church of St. Francesco with the painting masterpiece “La Missione” by Andrea Pozzo;
• the Cathedral of St.  Donato and “The Misericordia” Church, architectural masterpieces by Francesco Gallo;
• the Belvedere, the Town tower (13^th century) and the spectacular facades in St. Pietro square (15^th-18^th century).

Another reason Mondovì makes a good day trip destination is that likely there is a cultural event or show happening. For example, in February the city host a Carnival, one of the most well known and important ones in Piedmont. In April they host a Spring fair. In August there is Handcraft fair, where pottery is one of their most famous handcrafts along with printing, wood restoration and wrought iron). On September 7th, there is a fireworks display and then at the beginning of November the truffle fair “Peccati di Gola” (sin of gluttony) kicks off which is a bounty of wines and gastronomic products of the area.

In keeping with my desire to combine day tripping with a long lunch, there is a unique restaurant in Mondovì that I would recommend, especially if you have had your fill of restaurants with exposed brick and yellow walls. Trattoria Ezzelino is a contemporary restaurant serving creative Italian dishes. Instead of the typical tomato and mozzarella salad, I remember getting served a quasi gelato/mousse of tomatoes and mozzarella. Also very unusual to find in the Langhe, there was fresh fish on the menu and I enjoyed seared tuna over a medley of fresh vegetables. (29 Via Vico. Closed Monday and Tuesday for lunch, Phone number: 017 455 8085).

From TorreBarolo, Mondovì is 34 km away and can be reached in about 35minutes. If you felt like some culture combined with some skiing, Prato Nevoso is only another 15min up into the Alps past Mondovì.

If you are holidaying in the Langhe Valley for a week, you might want to include some sites a bit further afield. I thought it might be helpful to do a series of blogs posts on day trip destinations. I chose Saluzzo as my first destination as the view driving towards Saluzzo with Monviso (3,800 meters/12K feet) in the background is stunning in the winter.  As you drive towards Saluzzo, the rolling terraced hills of the Langhe ebb away and the landscape becomes flat and is covered in fruit orchards of an extensive variety (apples, pears, kiwi, and peaches). 

Local fruit produce is the pride of Saluzzo and dominate the “el mercà d’le fômne” (the women’s market) which is held every Saturday in the quaint setting of Via Volta. Other noteworthy products are the white Saluzzo Hen, which is high acclaimed and promoted by the Slow Food organization, as well as many excellent local cheeses from the nearby valley such as Castelmagno D.O.P and Toma d’Elva.
With a population of 17K, Saluzzo is half the size of Alba, but the many large piazzas and shopping arcades (under the canopy of arches), makes it feel bigger than Alba.

A very pleasant afternoon could be spent walking through the many shopping arcades and streets of this beautiful walled medieval city and when you need a break, the city has many cafes that are perfect for people watching. If you are hungry for some culture, the Saluzzo tourist site (which is also in English) has three excellent walking tours with maps showing the route. For example, the tour titled “Door to Door” walks you past all the noteworthy architectural and historic buildings. The other two tours are “The 19th Century” and “The Walk of the Marquis”.

A day trip wouldn’t be complete without a wonderful lunch and I have just the place. A few years back on my very first visit to Saluzzo, I lunched at La Gargotta del Pellico and I can still remember the meal – Silvio Pellico was a patriot and writer was born in Saluzzo in 1789. The restaurant is hard to find as it is tucked away in the ancient city streets, but don’t let that put you off. When we finally found it, it was 2pm on the dot and I was worried they wouldn’t seat me and my sister for lunch, as typically 2pm is the cut off for any orders to the kitchen.

Thankfully the combination of my attempt to explain in Italian how I was lost, our mini-skirts (it was 85 degrees) and both being blonde may have helped and we were seated in an elegant dining room (with air-conditioning ).

One thing you will realize after staying a few days in the Langhe is that the menus at the restaurants are all very similar, however, just an hour away in Saluzzo you will find a refreshing new selection of Italian delicacies to enjoy. I remember for a starter my sister had a lovely lightly fried stuffed zucchini flower whereas I remember my main was fresh egg pasta with the most delicious duck (or was it boar) ragu I had ever had. For dessert we had fresh peach gelato that actually came stuffed in a frozen peach.

There is much to explore and writing this blog makes me want to be sure to get back on my next visit down to TorreBarolo.

Sites:

• The Cathedral, built in the years 1491-1501 and dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta and San Chiaffredo;
• The church of San Giovanni, hosting the finely sculpted sepulchre of marquis Ludwig II;
• Villa Belvedere, once the hunting residence of the Saluzzo Marquisses;
• Casa Cavassa, a symbol of the Renaissance with its 15 magnificent rooms, hosting the Civic Museum.

Saluzzo is 49km from Barolo and should take a bit under an hour by car. To reach Saluzzo, head back towards the A6 Autostrada and take the exit Bra/Marene.  Head towards Savigliano and the SP662.